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‘Powerty from barrel of gun.’ Misspelt, with garbled syntax, the poster seemed imbued with an odd poignancy – the propaganda of the permanent socialist revolution commoditized, copied, and churned out in bad English for foreign tourists, taking its place as one more curio in the bric-a-brac at Panjiayuan market. Situated in south-east Beijing, it is one of the largest antiques markets in China. Here under canopied shade a vast array of antiques and trinkets tempts the eye of the tourist. The old, the odd, and the fake all come here in search of new owners； anything and everything may be found, though the prices seem based more than anything else upon a market assessment of the buyer, not the goods.
Founded in 1992 as the country re-embarked upon its stalled opening to the outside world, the market began as people began bringing their heirlooms to what was then an empty patch of south eastern Beijing, laying wares down on blankets. Slowly the site expanded, gaining a reputation for the occasional startling find made by antique dealers. Today the market is divided up into sections – stone carving, books and scriptures, arts and crafts, traditional paintings, general interest and minority goods.
Entering, I had moved down a corridor devoted to brushwork. Philosophers wandering through wildernesses of mountain and mist jostled with full-frontal paintings of naked young women, posed and smiling, in variously welcoming stances – a typical melange of subjects and styles, and key to Panjiayuan’s charm.
Whole sections of the place appeared devoted to religious paraphernalia. Innumerable statues of the Buddha lined the space along the stalls： the Buddha in repose, the Buddha in prayer, the Buddha seated, smiling, and secretive. Not to be outdone, Mao figurines lay in great profusion： Mao the scholar, Mao the soldier, Mao the demigod.
Shoppers wandered here and there browsing at the green and white of jade figurines, holding them up to the light and pressing them to their cheeks. Prayer beads, Tibetan hats, antelope horns, shawls and robes lay here and there. A puffer-fish hung desiccated and spiky from the top of a stand, its eyes gazing dead and ironic upon the customers.
Coins lay in great profusion on the long tables where the traders had laid out their wares, money from all ages of China’s history. Republican-era coins mixed with those purporting to be from the Qin Dynasty （221-206 BC）, while copper knife coins of the Zhou period （1046-256 BC）, some green with age, others still gleaming and more likely than not the product of a counterfeit goods factory, mixed with spade money and the more familiar circles and squares of copper currency.
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