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While still a student at the Art Institute of the University of Paris in 1972, Chiang Hsun, now a renowned Taiwan-based aesthetician, painter and writer, was excited to discover an elegant art museum near the Eiffel Tower. Also known as Guimet Museum, the National Museum of Asian Arts is a treasure trove of unique artwork including a variety of Buddhist artifacts from India, Nepal, Afghanistan and other Asian countries. Even more excitingly, Chiang’s student ID card from the University of Paris allowed him free admission to the museum. “In those years, I frequented the museum to understand the history of Buddhist art,” Chiang recalled.
The centerpiece of the lobby of Guimet Museum is a giant stone bridge leading to the gate of Angkor Thom. The bridgehead features a seven-headed serpent, or “Naga” in Hinduism, as well as Deity Indra and Asura which are involved in a tug of war. According to Hinduism, Indra is the protagonist representing good whereas Asura is an evil spirit, and the battle between good and evil helps maintain the balance of the universe. “Here, I was overwhelmed by the intricacy, beauty and breathtaking awesomeness of Angkor sculptures. I hadn’t expected such a high degree of precision in the artwork of the ancient Angkor civilization,” Chiang said. It was in the museum that the artist’s attachment to Angkor sprouted.
“Back then, I longed for a chance to visit Angkor Thom, but in the 1970’s Cambodia was mired in the chaos of civil war, suffering under the brutal rule of the Khmer Rouge regime,” Chiang recalled. “It was not until the 1990’s, when the civil war came to an end, that I got my first chance to set foot on Cambodian soil. I consider the chance a fruit of Karma, or a seed I had sown in Paris more than 20 years before.”
‘Prosperity Is a Process of Disappearance’
In early 1990’s, Chiang made his first visit to Angkor Thom. Upon seeing the serene Angkor Wat, the enigmatic stone sculptures and the weed-covered timeless ruins, he sighed： “The process in which architecture is destroyed and abandoned by nature as it is shown here is difficult to find in other places. It takes our breath away with its awe-inspiring power. Given infinite time, any prosperity is a process of disappearance.”
In 1431, Siam captured Angkor Thom before sacking the city. The Khmer king moved the capital to Phnom Penh and abandoned Angkor, leaving it deserted and before long, it became covered by dense forest. Though members of the Khmer Empire occasionally entered the nearby forests for hunting expeditions and encountered its majestic temples, Angkor Wat remained little known to the public.
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