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Located at the terminus of the Silk Road and at one time the cultural and political capital of China, the city of Xi’an in Shaanxi province has one of the more interesting culinary histories in China, in no small part due to the influence of its large Muslim population.
The old Drum Tower acts as the de facto entryway to the Muslim Quarter, located in the Northwest quadrant of the ancient walled city. At first glance, you get a sort of Epcot Center, Disney-esque impression, what with the loud hawking and bright signs everywhere, but it’s a location steeped in history： the neighborhood has housed a largely Muslim population since the 7th Century AD. Many of the dishes served have changed little since that time.
You’ll find sights familiar to both Chinese and Middle Eastern culture. Chefs stir-fry lamb and spices in hot woks set over blazing hot coal ovens. Nearby, hawkers roast walnuts or sell prunes of varying prices and degrees of quality.
If you want to see crowds and hawkers and get jostled before your meal, head there in the late evening, after 7：30 or so. Go there in the afternoon or earlier in the evening and you’ll get treated better with a little more space to walk around—and food that’s prepared with a bit more time and attention.
No matter how hungry you enter, you can expect to leave fully stuffed without spending more than around 40 Yuan（about $6.50） per person. Not a bad price for a night out.
1.HAND-STRETCHED NOODLES
Noodles come in all shapes and sizes ‘round here, and you’ll find noodles made from wheat flour, rice flour, mung bean starch, green bean starch, and a half dozen other grains and pulses in a variety of sauces and soups in the Muslim Quarter alone.
The noodles are always stretched to order, and you’ll recognize the restaurants that serve them by the oiled steel tables set out in front, topped with a bucket of greased dough balls. When you place an order, the noodle-stretcher will place a few balls on the oiled table and start by flattening them out with a smooth wooden dowel.
Next, he folds and stretches the noodles as far as he can without lifting them off the table. It’s remarkably like watching an expert pizzaiolo at work. Anyone who’s made a pizza before knows the process： stretch on the work surface first, then finish the process by lifting it and letting gravity do the rest of the work.
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