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Every visitor to China forms their own unique opinion, and foreign-born residents tend to fancy themselves“China experts” within the space of a couple of months or so. As they stay longer, their authoritative claims of understanding China tend to become less assertive. Observations made by foreign visitors and even longtime residents are invariably tainted by their own expectations and cultural backgrounds.
I am no exception. I have revised my understanding, or rather misunderstanding, of Chinese people, society and culture over and over again.
First Impression
I enjoyed pondering the sights passing by the window of the train taking me from Guangzhou to Beijing on my first visit to China in October 1975 as a scholarship student.
China was not a rich country. Dried mud supplemented bricks as building material in villages. The cities were over-crowded with a steady flow of people on every street, either on foot or bicycles. The only sharp or shining colors to be found were on red flags and banners.
People dressed simply. I remember thinking that the green, blue or gray outfits might be economical. They could be massproduced and didn’t require any expensive materials.
Rural roads were narrow and seemed to facilitate more horsedrawn carts than trucks. Some people rode bicycles, but not as many as I had expected. Three-wheeled vehicles and tractors were common. That preserved resources, I thought. They didn’t seem very safe, though. Overcrowded buses shuttled down streets, but hardly any sedans could be found.
I don’t think anyone at that time imagined that China’s streets would soon be filled with private cars. I didn’t either. The concept of private cars starkly contrasted with the egalitarian ideology of the Mao era before reform policies were introduced at the end of the 1970s. Besides, I guessed that there were not enough resources in China for the wasteful mass consumption of the Western world. It was inconceivable that car traffic would ever supplant the flow of bicycles in Chinese cities.
Have You Eaten?
It took some time to adjust to the most common greeting, which involves asking whether the other person has eaten： Chi fan le ma? Gradually, I realized that this kind of greeting, which remains common in Beijing, is primarily reserved for people you know.
People you don’t know should be greeted by stating that they are good：“Ni hao,” which literally means “you are good.” It sounds like an answer to the English greeting “How do you do?” or “How are you?”
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